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Loohan Communications Office
Orgone Technical Bulletin # 26
Tubular Perpendiculosis: a rare mental disorder characterized by a conviction that one can save the world by placing cylindrical objects at right angles to each other.
-- Loohan's Comprehensive Psychiatric Dictionary
Years ago there was a guy in Europe somewhere named Saso Burja who made orgone devices that had a pipe with a 90 degree connector to another pipe. Called them "poshast". He had some cautions about these things. Something to do with anomalous phenomena or something. So I urge everyone not to mess with this stuff.
I am not a physicist, nor do I know what I'm doing. I'm just a perpetually perplexing perpendicular perpetrator. So please don't read any further.
Later some people put 45 degree connectors on their chembusters, as depicted.
No perpendicularity here, but then some people put 90 degree connectors just under the 45s, with shorter pipes sticking out. I heard no adverse reports.
More recently I made a couple very potent psychotronic weapons. Although it is not required, I made them around xenon tubes. Even without the cast end caps, they are extremely intense. My impression is that they are as potent as a bunch of good orgonite devices despite having no resin, an economic boon to people in countries where resin is extremely expensive. And the xenon tube is quite secondary in importance to the shape.
A few more details about these. The Ts were centered at 5" on the 12" section. (However, one could also center them in the center of the long section.) The shorter copper pipes also extended 5", from the mid-point of the long section. Meaning, it is 5" from the tip of the small pipe to the center (not far side) of the long section. Length matters. I advise you to use intuition in determining distances. If you just copy me, you may end up like me, spending your days fighting hordes of invisible enemies and chattering with invisible playmates, and indulging in delusions of invincibility with astral kung-fu weapons like this:
The 3rd pipe, or antenna, as the case may be, gets placed at the midpoint of the exposed part of the 2nd pipe (not the center of the whole 5" pipe).
Double-terminated quartz would be excellent for the end crystals, but I used funky danburites on the short pipes, and the long ones have an amethyst in one case and a black tourmaline in the other.
The end caps contain more little magnets aiming their south faces into the tubes.
Of course I did some other details to make these so potent. I taped a topaz to the back of the tourmaline. I taped a tiny yellow apatite crystal to the back of each danburite. I programmed the components.
Originally I intended the units to stick out off a vertical 2" pipe, but then I realized there were several logistic problems with that idea, so I'll do something else with that.
I have a lot of other ideas to pursue with this. LEDs would be excellent inside these, as would water bottles, internal or external lotus coils, etc.
The main "pipe" could actually be a cylinder of cast resin, if one devised a good way to drill and seal neat holes in the mold for the perpendicular pipes. An alternative would be to cast the part of the cylinder that you plan to stick a pipe in with clearcast or other drillable compound (no sand or other real hard stuff) then drill it. For large holes, cheap spade bits should work. I'm thinking the hole should probably be drilled to a depth of the radius of the cylinder.
I just ordered some end caps to fit 2" pipe (which I have some more of). I plan to make a "bicycle pump" unit with a small T stuck into the end cap, and a "handle" of narrow pipe. Very portable. The other (short) 90 degree pipe will be inserted in the 2" pipe. One could achieve the same thing more economically by casting a straight pipe connector into an end of the large pipe, but with a (taped-on) end cap one can easily re-open the large pipe for later modifications.
I have read in a couple places on the web somewhere that dimensional shifts entail a 90 degree turn. That is, supposedly, if you are in one dimension and you want to shift to another one, you somehow turn 90 degrees and boldly forge ahead. Not sure if that is relevant to anything, but I think it's interesting.
My impression is that it is most important to have the axes of the perpendicular pipes on 3 different planes. After that, you are duplicating along the same planes, and can anticipate much less benefit by having more bends. But then again, there is the resonance factor. Two pipes along the same plane should be placed with some intuition toward spacing.
Nov. 13, '07: Made a smaller version. Quite intense.
Made to fit on my RoboCop 3 unit as a booster. You can do the same for your orgone devices that have a flat surface of any size on top.
Since the 2nd pipe is of smaller diameter, it has to be propped up if it is to rest level. I used a sliver of selenite. I might spot-glue this stuff in place with silicone.
To dowse the lengths, I just ran my thumbnail along the pipe while envisioning the end product and usage.
The smallest pipe should have been brass for maximum intensity, but I didn't have any around. I did have several inches of silver pipe, which is almost as strong here, and a lot more balancing of the yang copper energy.
I like to put the energy directions of the pipe sections such that the yin ends are at the tip of the smallest pipe, etc. so that the amethyst is at the most yang end.
The unit contains a water bottle, titanium shavings, chips of moonstone and sodalite, a couple pearls, and an amethyst, all secured with epoxy. Also, there's a tiny danburite (not shown) now sticking out of the smaller copper section, which had fallen out, forgotten, before I took the pics. The stones are programmed by Pitwexin.
If you do this trick of drilling a hole for the pipe instead of using a T coupling, you will probably need to pour resin into it to secure it. I first gooped some silicone seal on the joint to keep epoxy from seeping out the joint. Unfortunately, as the seal dried, continually being fiddled with by me to make sure it's perpendicular, the small pipe slid in further than I had intended, which was halfway. But it doesn't seem to make much difference, energetically. I put aluminum tape over the large pipe end, which I peeled off once the epoxy was cured. I also made the startling discovery that if one neglects to seal the inner end of the smaller pipe, epoxy will flow out the other end of it. Unless you support that end at a higher altititude.
Nov. 25, '07: Here's my latest wacky sculpture, cobbled together feverishly out of a perceived need for enhanced protection against astral creepazoids.
It's glued to a box containing good electronics and jacks and stuff.
Note that if you put a couple copper 45 degree connectors in there, you can cock stuff at a jaunty angle. With sensitivity, one can adjust it to the position that feels the strongest.
Maybe even re-adjust it occasionally to keep your targets on their toes.
Note that one can avoid paying $$$ for large-bore copper tees by imaginative casting. I just sealed the end of this 3/4" horizontal pipe with aluminum tape, and set it touching the 2.5" pipe from a scrapyard. Partially submerged it in resin. Works great. A copper end cap would have worked at least as well, but for some reason it didn't occur to me.
Note also that sometimes it may be correct to have the small perpendicu-tube like the stainless one here going out the junction.
Also note that if there is enough size difference between the drilled pipe and the smaller one, then usually things stick in position by themselves fairly well. There is no resin or glue holding the stainless pipe in place.
Off the subject a bit, but in case anyone was wondering, that is a botryoidal coil strapped to the back with ty-wraps. Always in fashion.
And what is inside that mysterious little black box in the earlier pictures? Mwahahaa, that is another subject entirely.
April 27, '08: Where have I gone with this concept in recent months? Mostly I have internalized it. Many of the items I have made since contain tube perps inside them, cast into the mess. Then I discovered 1/4" hardware cloth (see March 3, '08 entry in OTB 28). Apparently, although this heavy steel screen is woven like window screen, because of the larger mesh it is more nearly perpendicular. Maybe. In any case, it seems to work out better energetically than finer screen.
And, even if one does not imbed anything going in the 3rd direction, more often than not, the object itself serves as the 3rd direction, even if it is square or rectangular or faintly conical. But often I do imbed cylindrical uprights, like ferrite toroids or binding posts.
Hardware cloth really improves the energy as well as other aspects of performance, and I highly recommend it.
June 15, '08:
Here's another wand with xenon; 3 long tubes in a Trinity formation, inside (nominally) 1&1/4" pipe. There's a banana jack in the side, mostly for perp effect, although one can plug things into it, too.
For some reason, I could not find any place within it to place a dynamic mic element for receptivity. No place was energetically appropriate somehow. This was before I made this ice cube with an antenna sticking out. It is an antenna that can be rotated in all directions. I got a bunch from allelectronics.com. For a sensitive person, this can be a boon.
The ice cube was an appropriate place for the mic. Also, the addition of the ice cube and antenna boost effectiveness of the unit by 38%, I get. It is glued on with silicone seal.
The unit is stuffed with electronic components used non-electrically (see OTB 30), epoxy, powders, and a couple small stones. Here you can see 2 banana jacks. Each connects with a different, carefully chosen, part of the "electronic" guts. It should do well with any kind of electronic amp input, or 2-part programmed crystals. But so far I have only piped in signals from other orgone units via this extension cord, as shown below.
All the programming is of the Arcturan style, except for 2 small components in the ice cube which have the general anti-evil program of OTB 27.