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Orgone Technical Bulletin #8
August, 2003, revised October, 2004
Best Water Wands for Heavy-Duty Environmental Repair
In OTB 7, I discussed the historic background and the development of what is proving to be one of the best types of device yet available for dramatic reversal of the deliberately engineered Deadly Orgone conditions confronting this planet at this time.
The lollipop-type units described in OTB 7 do have the advantage of being ergonomically the best for throwing, and do have their applications, but for a bit more trouble and expense, you can make a more unwieldy but stupendously powerful "Triniti" type unit.
The important principles that are emerging are:
Use 3 pipes together instead of one. (Idea courtesy of SAPS.)
Do an external mobius wrap around these pipes, and cover this well with aluminum tape. (Also first implemented by SAPS.)
[Update: now I would wrap the aluminum tape with electrical or cellophane tape, then aluminum, etc. for several layers.]
Use orgonite on the ends. SAPS casts orgonite internally on one end of each pipe; some of us prefer to cast the ends externally.
Use Sally's Medicine Wheel Water. To make this affordable, I advocate using a tiny, well-sealed containers of the pure, first-generation inside one of the pipes. (The pipes contain mainly other water.) That is all that is necessary to keep the entire unit at optimum strength.
[Update: now I only use a (in my opinion) more powerful water which easily made; see OTB 12.]
My first device of this nature is described here.
There is very little orgonite in this first unit I made. Those molds were largely filled with pipes, and took only a few ounces of epoxy. This makes it nice and economical, relying mostly on the water for power. However, one could put more. There is quite a synergy between the water and orgonite.
I've been advocating the avoidance of any components that have the least magnetic field, out of concern that the water may eventually lose some of its structure. However, if one has a capsule of the first-generation water held back away from any orgonite by using coils inside the pipe, this is not a concern. [Nor is it a concern if one incorporates charging labyrinths instead of Sally Water.]
This means one can add BBs (quite a boon where weight is desired to anchor down a wand thrown in a river) or black sand (a very powerful ingredient) and/or magnetite (also fairly powerful).
And one can use steel shavings, which are generally much easier and cheaper to come by than other metals. However, I would caution that if the wand is to be placed in water, that it is advisable to thoroughly waterproof the steel-containing (applies to BBs, too) orgonite, as by re-casting in a larger container using only non-ferrous metals.
Pipe is cheap, if you use 3/4" as I did (I believe SAPS uses 1&1/2"). So is water, if making a capped unit.
If the location you have in mind, and the deployment logistics, allow it, you could make the pipes much longer. Of course, the wire to wrap the pipes will cost a bit more, but the resultant intensity should be well worth it.
How about using coils to drive the energy in one predominant direction? I made one monstrosity recently which had 6 pipes cast with a steep cone on one end. This cone was made of epoxy and non-ferrous metals, with a cookie coil wound (and with tips bent) so as to direct energy toward the tip. The mold I used was one of those steep black motor oil funnels, with the long tip cut off. A steep cone has more tipward energy focus. The tip of the cone is truncated, but that's OK.
Since this orgonite was non-magnetic, I placed the first-generation "microwand" inside one of the pipes in the tip.
The butt end cast was in a quart yoghurt container, and contained a good bit of steel, silica sand, and coils designed to take in energy. The pipes contained internal coils.
I wrapped the entire exposed pipes with a spiral mobius and aluminum tape.
What to do with one of these strongly directional wands? I suppose one could aim it at the crack-house on the block, but personally, I'm into shooting energy straight down into the earth.
Further tips: I made 3 pipes a bit longer (26.65" versus 25") than the other 3. This was to make them fit in the funnel mold better. The 3 longer ones were in the center, with the others stacked around them so as to form a triangle cross-section of the 6 pipes. I put a large single-terminated crystal in each of the center pipes, in the front.
Alert! It appears probable that copper pipe end caps are being used in a dark radionic way. Sounds ludicrous, I know, but if you use end caps that have any logo stamped on the ends, remove or obliterate somehow. Raypsi had a thread on this at the old orgonite.com forum. Also, as mentioned in that thread, use steel wool or sandpaper to remove any ink on the pipes, and remove or strike through any barcodes.