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looney Loohan builds his first Triniti (variant)

August 5, 2003

First, I cut 3 lengths of 3/4" pipe (the largest copper pipe available locally) to 26.65" (a slight mistake, as I ended up needing end caps on one end; it would've been better to cut them a hair shorter to allow for the end caps).
Then I taped each pipe with two 2" squares of aluminum tape. I put a rubber band around the other ends, and taped the 3 together as shown. (Another slight mistake, as I then realized I should've put crystals in the cracks between the pipes before taping.) Then I scrunched 3 small single-terminated crystals in there anyway, and used more tape to secure them. I aimed the tips outward, instead of inward toward the center of the unit.

Then, just for overkill I put another piece of tape over the top.

Then, I put a bit of metal in an 8 oz. yoghurt cup, stuck in the taped end, and filled with more metal and a few minerals. I also stuck in 3 little funky 6.66" cat coils of the type I use in ice-cubers. I placed these aiming out the sides. Not a critical detail.
I secured the unit upright, and poured epoxy. I placed a water wand so as to touch the pipes as the resin cured, hoping to impart a bit more vibe to the setting orgonite.

After that set up, I wrapped the external passive mobius coils.
Jon Logan had told me that, for passive mobius coils, larger gauge wire is more powerful. I was almost out of 14g magnet wire, but I had the better part of a spool of 14g wire with thick plastic insulation. I pulled out roughly 25-30' just estimating, quadruple that over, and twist it with the drill in Forward mode. Left a few inches of single strand, repeat the twisting twice. The resulting cable was about 3/8" diameter.
I did the middle mobius first, making a continuous-knot mobius with the wind going the opposite way as the twist. It ended up all uneven, ugly, and literally the size of a standard doughnut.
Hmmm... Jon also sometimes makes a variant mobius which is just the twisted cable wound into a spiral coil around something. I figured I'd try that for the other 2 sections.
I wrapped one clockwise, and the other CCW around the 3 pipes. These look pretty neat, low-profile.
Then I taped over the whole mess with a bunch of aluminum tape. This truly does increase the energy remarkably.

The energy was totally wild! And this with the ends open on one end, and no water yet. It was especially strong when I touched the metal of the unit, suggesting it strongly responded to my personal chi.

After that set up, I filled the pipes. One pipe got a long caduceus coil of 14g magnet wire. Another one got a long spiral coil of doubled/twisted 18g magnet wire, as well as a smaller spiral of sterling silver.
The other pipe got 2 shorter spirals of the same magnet wire, with a small container (as pictured) made of 1/2" pipe hardware filled 3/4 full of first-generation Medicine Wheel Water. [Note: I blow this off these days, as I use a different water.] This should keep all the rest of the water in the unit up-to-date with the constantly-strengthening Wheel. To make the little item fit more snugly (but not so snugly as to prevent water from going past it) I wrapped a wire around the center groove, and taped it with aluminum tape, leaving the pipe ends untaped. Click on pic for construction tips.

Then, each pipe was filled about 9/10 full of second-generation water (allowing room for freeze expansion) and a small amount, no more than a teaspoon each, of amendments went into the water: one pipe got powdered lepidolite, another got pascalite, another got M-state source minerals.

Then I tried taping the open pipe ends, but that leaked when inverted, so I silicone-glued caps on. I had to use 2 screwdrivers to temporarily pry each pipe away from the others to slide the caps on.
I left the unit standing like that for a day so the glue could set up enough to upend the unit and cast the other end.

Meanwhile, I had made some copies of Don's radionic enhancements, and so was able to add some to the second pour.
That's a freshwater clamshell you see embedded below and to the right of the radionic pic.
Somewhat crude workmanship, I know, but industrial-strength was what I mainly was aiming for.
And this is the most powerful thing I have made yet. I took some pics of the completed unit, but, alas, they did not come out, and the unit is nicely buried now, and I hate to dig it up again.

Here's a shot of the bottom of the second pour.

ANNUIT MORTIS, ancient world order!

Alert! It appears probable that copper pipe end caps are being used in a dark radionic way. Sounds ludicrous, I know, but if you use end caps that have any logo stamped on the ends, please read Raypsi's thread at the orgonite.com forum. Also, as mentioned in that thread, use steel wool or sandpaper to remove any ink on the pipes, and remove or strike through any barcodes.

[Update 10/04: Now I would use pics (OTB 12) that are not dependent on someone's radionics setup for their power, facing inwards instead. Indeed, I would not use Sally Water, but labyrinth water, with labyrinths wrapped, facing inward, around the pipes. I would tape pieces of hematite as well as quartz crystals touching the pipes near the ends first, covering these and the pipe ends with aluminum tape, then the labyrinths over that. If extra weight is needed (to hold it on the bottom of a river) I would be sure to use plenty of steel and BBs in the orgonite, recasting over it with a non-ferrous mix.
In fact, the last units I made along these lines (for river-gifting) had the pipes open on one end, and several inward-facing labyrinth pics in them, layered OTB 9 style, using mainly aluminum tape in lieu of the copper foil (for ease and economy) though they had one layer of the foil, too.
I figure the heavy end will tend to keep the pipe tip upward, making it unlikely to fill up with silt, so there will always be charged water in it, even though it is open. So there would be no need for it to contain its own water, unless one had a frequency (like the bead water mentioned in OTB 12) that one only knew how to reproduce in water.
The pipes had crystals in the base, pointing outward, and wrapped with crude clockwise spiral coils to make them the right diameter to fit snugly.]