Loohan Communications Office

Orgone Technical Bulletin # 20

March-July, 2007

Misc. Tech Ramblings

March 18, 2007: This OTB will be sort of in a blog format, as I am in the process of figuring stuff out that might be pretty cutting edge, and I want others to get the hot dope and start playing with these things themselves if they want. I'm not sure where it will lead.

First, an excerpt from my blog entry of March 16:

I poured epoxy yesterday for the first time in about 6 months. I still need to do another cast on it, but it's a prototype of a new invention that may or may not work a lot better than the conventional stick-pad used in radionic dowsing. The idea is to concentrate as much energy as possible in one little point just under the surface, so that it can be felt more distinctly. The coil will eventually be connected to a black box.

Here is the heart of it. It is based on the old Trinity Wand design. I dowsed numerous design options, and this seemed to be the most potent of any i could think of. The bottles were filled half-full of water, and cast in intense orgonite mix.

Where does one get nifty little bottles like this? A medical friend sent me a bunch of empty hypodermic medicine bottles. I use small pliers to carefully tear off the aluminum caps without damaging the rubber stoppers too much, then soak in hot water and clean them up.

In any case, variants of this idea can be used for other types of orgone units. Just be careful not to let the resin overheat if you are pouring above the level of the stoppers, as the lids would probably blow off. (end quote)

The thing sticking up in the middle is just a piece of 14awg magnet wire doubled over and twisted with a drill in forward mode. Note that the twist goes in the opposite direction of screw threads.
Originally I planned to use thin metal tubing, but what I had on hand was a bit too thick to fit between the bottles. And this might be better.
Since the wire was a bit too thin to fit snugly, I wrapped aluminum tape around it. I wrote/drew on it mirror-image-wise (see OTB 9) to help direct energy inward.

Wire always has one end that is yin and one yang . When you double it over, one of the wires will be + on the end, and one -.
It occurred to me later that maybe I should instead have taken 2 pieces of wire, laid them together with the same orientation, twisted, and thus been able to have both wires be + on the business end. I will try that next time, perhaps with wires of rarer metals.

It is easy to dowse which end is which with a pendulum. It's the only thing I ever have been able to dowse with a pendulum. Not that I need to, as I can feel it directly. The + end will make the pendulum circle CW, the - end CCW. But if you can't dowse it, no sweat, just double the wire over and it will still work well.

I poured on the 15th and 16th. But first, I cut a short piece of neoprene tubing and put it over the end of the wires. On the theory that it would be good to insulate the energy of the wires to keep it from dispersing. I wanted a distinct focal point here.
This tubing is sold by the foot at auto supply stores. I just happened to have a piece laying around that caught my eye, and was a perfect fit.

I poured a very intense, magnetite-based mix high enough to cover the straight walls of the bottles. Then I poured some clearcast (see OTB 16). Incidentally, I now dope my clearcasts with minute quantities of one intense powder or another. Agnihotra ash can be used, but with this, the smaller the amount, the more intense, in my opinion.
Then I poured another layer over that of a different, more dilute, less metallic and more herbal powder mix.

Yesterday I broke off the mold, and was amazed. Not only by the inadvertent visual resemblance to an electric motor, but by the energy above the unit. I took this pic so that maybe a few sensitives can dig what I'm talking about. There is like a beam of energy that comes to a focal point about 1 foot above the "spout". Even with the mobe just in a passive loop.

But the quality of this energy! I don't know if I've ever encountered such orgone before. I suspect no one has ever made a device that brings this through before. It feels like some type of hyperdimensional psychotronic ectoplasm or something. That's a highly scientific term. This is Prof. Loohan talking, here.
It has a real sweet "angelic" quality that seems inimical to evil beings. So far, looking good as a weapon and probably healing device as well, and further testing is ongoing.

Alas! Alas. I fear that the more remarkable aspects of this device may depend largely on the special orgonite powder I batched up recently. My best ever. But many of the ingredients are hard to get and/or expensive. And, no, I can't sell what I have, as some of the ingredients are hard to come by. I'll tell you that aside from a bunch of quality magnetite powder (and the quality of magnetite can vary considerably) , it had some powders of silicon and antimony trisulfate purchased from Micron Metals. Small amounts of Sindooram, spodumene, turmeric, and a great many other things.
Including a capsule of Siberian ginseng. Recently I stumbled across an old bottle of it I partially used years ago. I dowsed it as a superlative orgonite additive in small amounts.
But then again, some batches of the herb may have inferior energy. Siberian ginseng is a totally different plant from other ginsengs. As is Tienchi ginseng, which also has an amazing vibe.
Oh, yeah, and tablespoon of hematite powder.
Yes, I know, I'm a total hypocrite after some of the stuff I said in OTB 18 about simplicity being next to godliness.

I encourage others to try to build something along these lines, and when you're done, you can email me for my opinion if you want.
But it may be difficult to duplicate this energy phenomenon. You see, I cast a couple simple disks with the leftover mix from the first pour, and these disks are phenomenal, too.

March 19, '07: Now, I did not deliberately set out to make a device like this. I just wanted to focus the energy in the "nozzle" so I could feel it strongly when rubbing the surface of the unit. I was going to re-pour it in a larger mold so as to barely cover the nozzle with a smooth top surface. However, now I have changed the plan, and will design the 2nd casting in such a way as to maximize power in the spot above the unit hopefully without crippling its projection function instead. I plan to leave the nozzle protruding.
For one thing, my throat center is a lot more sensitive than my fingers are, and I can stand this on its side a foot away from my throat, and feel the energy quite strongly. I.e. I can dowse with my throat.
I do not yet have an input device (black box) with which to test this.

Keep in mind that I am a novice as far as radionics devices goes. I just recently (from Jon Goldman) learned about the existence of the "wishing well" type of device. No dials or stick-pad needed; one simply puts the target and trend on the witness plate, and an audio amplifier boosts the signal and sends it to, ordinarily, a telescoping antenna. Though other broadcasting devices, e.g. a coil in orgonite, could be used in lieu of the antenna. I have ordered a couple mono amps and hope to have a unit slapped together soon with one of them. Should be very simple to make. Just mount the amp in a box with a witness plate or bowl wired to the input of the amp, and wire the output jack to the output of the amp. Then plug any output device into the jack.

It occurred to me that I could perhaps make a sensitivity amplifier for dowsing by plugging my new device into the output (where the antenna traditionally goes) of such a wishing well unit. Then, I could place a witness of what I wanted to dowse on the witness plate. I could write different things on different pieces of paper, and compare the feel of each.

After I posted the above, a reader sent me a link about patent # US5744715, which, apparently, is a device for radionic dowsing that plugs into a PC which gives acoustic feedback.

Regarding my "motor" device, I get the impression that the little field above it is linked to dimensions 5 thru 24. Like merely by running it, even passively (though it's hooked up to a freq pulser now) may act to align this world with those dimensions. Not that I necessarily know what I'm talking about.

More details for anyone attempting to duplicate this:

Mobius coil lengths: (General construction info on mobius coils can be found here.)
When I dowsed what length wire to use, I got 15'8" for the coil on this. Of course, my objective at the time was to make a stick-pad. But it is possible I was intuitively sucked into making this device with the unusual properties it turned out to have.
Now I just made a 2nd coil for this unit (also of tinned, insulated, 24awg wire) but distinctly dowsed slightly shorter than 5'11", which makes for a very short coil to wrap around a unit that is 3 & 3/16" in diameter (I used a plastic Zinke Orchards almond butter jar as the original mold). It would only go around the "motor" about 1.3 times. Then I realized I needed to make this wire doubled over only once instead of the usual twice, resulting in a longer 2 strand cable instead of the usual 4-strand. This is better; made it around almost 3X.

And another subtle detail which might be crucial: a mobius coil will also have one face that is + and one that is -. You might be able to determine this with a pendulum. The energy of both coils must be downwards when in place. I strongly suspect that otherwise one won't get the same kind of hyperdimensional phenomena. It's a delicate thing. Also I made the coils as depicted above and as described in the updates on my mobius page, in terms of direction of twist as well as how you wind the finished cable.

March 20, '07: Yesterday after putting on the 2nd coil and hooking them both up to the same freq output, I got that this alone made it about 2.5X stronger (in terms of higher-dimensional stuff). Then, I unplugged one coil and plugged it into a different freq output. This seemed to again double the power.
Today I am re-casting the unit in a larger mold. I've been a bit paranoid that in my attempts to soup it up, I might kill the goose that laid the golden egg. But I think it's going to work out.

A couple days ago I mentioned other ways I would make this central rod "better" next time, but doing a bit more dowsing on it, I'm inclined to think I got lucky the first time. I don't think a tube would do "it". And I suspect that making both wires + at the business end would be significantly inferior. Meaning, I plan to make my next one pretty much the same way. Except instead of a cylindrical mold, I may use a funnel, and have the nozzle poke out the tip of that.
I am not sure whether magnet wire (which has a thin insulative coat) is superior to bare copper. If so, only slightly. I doubt that other metals would work better than copper.

March 21, '07: I just took the thing out of its mold this evening, and it blows me away. It is a quantum leap beyond anything else I have ever made, and more powerful than things several times as large.
One interesting thing is that the focus point remains right at 12" above the nozzle, no matter what mods are done to the body of the device. This focus point can, of course, be used as a weapon. This afternoon I placed it right in the center of Zeta 2 Reticuli to bug the crap out of the greys. That might be the best way to wield it: in a multidimensional vortex used by multidimensional pests. I'm not sure yet how effective it is on darkside humans.

I did some more dowsing about the orgonite mix. My impression is that for maximum effectiveness, the 2 most important ingredients (for this device) are iron and silicon. It is not necessary to use magnetite. Iron oxide red is most excellent, cheap, and readily available on the web. Get the red, not the black, if possible. Even steel lathe turnings would probably be good enough.
But a moderate amount of silicon is needed to get impressive power. Do not confuse this with silica. Silicon is a silvery-colored metal, not cheap. A rough idea is if you are using magnetite or iron oxide, maybe about 12-20 parts of those should be used with 1 part silicon, depending on how extravagant you want to get.

March 22, '07: In the pic above, the "motor" is being run by a 2-speed freq pulser, but even unplugged or turned off it's amazingly strong. So if you don't want pesky cords sticking out going to electrical doo-dads, this is still the design for you. In fact, down the road, I plan to make a real tiny one with with smaller bottles, no cords, to be held in the hand like a short wand.
Just connect any mobius coil(s) together in a loop.

Research continues apace (as though I had nothing better to do on a beautiful spring day in the woods). I'm going to make another one with some different construction details for comparison. This one has the bottles upside-down, and the coil wound more.

Instead of aluminum tape, I used 2 strips of copper tape, and 2 of silver-coated copper on the section contacting the bottles. Energy direction is to the right on this pic.

Even a piece of metal foil or tape (which this image to the left is supposed to represent) has predominant innate energy directions (represented by the arrows). So I made mine agree with the inherent direction of the written words (toward the end of the words) as well as the desired directional push of the tape (upwards). Also, how you wrap something determines whether more energy goes upward or downwards. In this instance, I would start wrapping the left end of the tape (sticky side is away from viewer) around the twisted rod, following the same directional rules as shown for SBB coils on my coil info page:

That is, if you were looking down on the tip of the rod from above, the finished tape wrap would appear to wind CW as it goes inward.
What did I gain by all this attention to detail with tape direction? Well, it does help direct the energy to the top, but in retrospect, I'm not sure if that will help or hinder, or have any significant effect on the performance of this unit, so don't sweat it. Reminder: this OTB is entitled Misc. Tech Ramblings. The concept may have more application elsewhere someday.

Incidentally, I discovered another new way to soup up stuff on re-casts. I used only clear epoxy doped with a little red powder from India. But... picture this: the original cast left a shallow depression in the bottom of the unit. Some containers such as yoghurt cups and the one I used, have a bottom ledge that sticks out further than the main bottom.
I dowsed that it was a good idea to leave this thin space created thereby (more or less) empty as another little resonant cavity. Then I got that it would be better to put some thin metal on the bottom of the cavity, like some kind of foil symbol, or some metal tape in a pattern, a thin coil, or...
What I ended up doing was putting a bit of loose antimony powder in there.
This is how I did it:
First, I cast about 3/8" of epoxy in the bottom of the 2nd mold, and let it harden thouroughly. Then, I placed a level tsp or so of antimony carefully in the center on top of this. Then, in a gesture reminiscent of smearing a bit of oil on an oil filter gasket prior to filter installation, I smeared a few drops of epoxy on the protruding bottom rim of the original piece, and carefully centered it over the poured layer that had the pile of antimony on top. Keeping a bit of pressure on it with my left hand (I wanted to seal out any seepage) I poured a bit more resin over everything -- just enough to glue things in place and seal them without encouraging a mess to seep in.
Then I waited until it set up before pouring more epoxy.
The result was that only a tiny bit of epoxy leaked in around the edge and grabbed a bit of the antimony. But most of the antimony is free to slide around. Meaning that any time the unit is moved at all, the energy configuration shifts slightly. If it were in a vehicle, not only would the water in the bottles be sloshing around, but the antimony would be in motion. In any case, even without movement, this gimmick adds probably more power than an SBB coil would.
One need not use antimony. I get that bits of kyanite might be better, especially if a few flecks of gold were added.

March 23, '07: Right now my 2nd one of these jobbies is curing. I'm not sure if I will cast an outer layer on it any time soon. I think it will turn out a bit stronger than the original "motor" before I added the 2nd mobe. I added 3 small danburite crystals (cheap grade) and 3 bismuth slugs, and it feels mighty strong.

My audio amplifier circuits that I ordered arrived today. I had to call Jon for advice. My electronics knowledge is pretty sketchy.
There is only one input post, and one output post. I can't power a mobius circuit with it, as there is only the one output. This normally goes to a telescoping antenna. But, I think on my next "motor" unit, I will run a lead from the bottom of the central post, and hook that up to the amp. Also have the usual mobius coil(s).
However, the coils would not be of help for a dowsing application, unless I made a hybrid witness-plate with 1 lead going to the amp and a separate mobius coil going to the "motor" mobes. Better yet, just tie into the mobius in the plate with the amp input lead as well, since for dowsing, I would not be running any electricity through the mobes.

March 24, '07: After mulling that over a bit more, the obvious occurred to me: one could string any amount of mobed devices along a line going from the output jack to the final antenna. Even though there is no current, there is a freq. I just know it would rock.
Some of the units would have separate mobes being run by a freq pulser and/or black box with dials. These would be strung together in separate circuit(s). It would be madness.

(Evening) This is unit #2. I just took off the mold, and this cast turned out sweet-looking. I'll probably leave it as it is.

The first pour was clearcast, and just enough to lock the bottle caps on.
I poured the epoxy into the bottom of the empty mold, then pressed the bottles, etc. into place. By some fluke, it came out perfectly centered.

March 29, '07: I've been working on an antenna unit for my amp. I thought that maybe I could retain the same functionality as the above units have, if I wrap the end of a pipe like this:


Note that the left end of the spiral coil is grounded to the pipe. I did not attempt to solder that, merely wrapped tightly and taped securely so no resin could seep in and act as an insulator.
This is "magnet wire" which has a translucent insulative coat. To remove it from the ends, it helps to first bake it with a lighter.

By trial and error, I had found the proper thickness of wire to make a perfect fit when I put 5 bottles around it. To hold the bottles in position, I had to rubber-band them, then tape them. Then I removed the rubber bands. Then I made a mobius coil. Again, the length I dowsed was fairly short, so I made a 2-strand cable instead of 4-strand. I soldered the lead from the spiral coil onto one lead of the mobius.
Incidentally, it is a bit better for fine devices like this to use lead-free solder, available at hardware stores. They have antimony or silver in them.

Then I stuck this thing in a big funnel, and poured. The last pour is now setting up. Looks like it will come out fairly perfect. Except for one minor detail:
Right after I poured the first installment of epoxy, I realized I had forgotten to put water in the bottles! Plus I normally always put a little gem in each bottle, maybe rose quartz, or peridot, or a lapis bead, or a cheap pearl.
So this unit has no water, no rocks, no orgonite. Just clear epoxy pumped full of good energies.
Actually, I may have an application for this in which the lack of water may not be a significant impediment. More on that later.
And now that I've figured out how to make these, I can more easily make more, with water.

I put together my amp unit, and have it hooked up to the curing device now, pumping good energy into it. It seems to work quite well. Pics to come.

March 30, '07: Here it is. Note the cheesy project box for the electronics. A pint cottage cheese container. I put in a disk of orgonite to make it bottom-heavy. The amp board is not even secured, except for the fact that the wires suspend it in position. Works great, and I can take off the lid in hot weather (the amp heats up a bit). In fact, I'm liable to drill a bunch of holes in the side for ventilation, and keep the lid on. The lid being the widest part, it should catch all the dust. Then I'll only have to worry about cockroaches and ants nesting in it.
There is only a single lead from the amp to the antenna, and a single lead from the witness can to the amp.

As far as the interdimensional functionality, this unit seems weaker, and the focus seems to be vaguer and more like around 9.75" beyond the tip of the pipe (which is ~13.325" long). Also, it only seems active on dimensions 5 and 6, and maybe a bit on 4 and 12, instead of 5-24 like the previous two devices.

Drawing from my rich cultic background, I fashioned a witness bowl from a piece of chrome-plated brass pipe a friend had given me. I stripped off several inches of wire, wrapped it snugly around the threads, and taped over it. It works great, and I will be removing the tape and casting epoxy over the end.
Not only can I hold it in my hand comfortably, to project my chi and intent into the amp, but I can also roll up paper and stick it inside and use it as a regular witness plate that way.

April 2, '07: One reason the new unit is not so hyperdimensional is, duh, that I didn't use any of my super-orgonite in it.

Also the amp runs a lot hotter than I realized at first. Jon says this could be mitigated with a lower-amperage adapter if I were running it on the grid. But since I'm running it directly off a solar system with 6 golf cart batteries... He thinks I'd do better with a 20-amp unit rather that this 7-amp one.
I may try that someday, but I have already ordered a mini-fan, and expect to make a bigger box with a fan so I can hopefully run it a lot in the summer.

I will be adding to this OTB from time to time, but meanwhile, I have begun another. Check it out: OTB 21.

April 16, '07: A few days ago I blew out the amp unit. I unplugged it momentarily, plugged it back in, and the central 1000uF capacitor erupted in smoke. Perhaps because I'd been running it most of the time, sometimes for days non-stop. The weather was cool, and I kept the lid off. I might be able to replace the capacitor. In any event, I do have a spare circuit board just like it I could hook up. But right now, I'm not too sure I'm real enamored of this approach. It's probably useful for people who have a problem with stick-pads and dials, but I suspect I can get equally good (at least) broadcasting effects with a dial box.

April 25, '07: OK, the motor units are now somewhat obsolete already. Here's the deal:

A shallow disk is always (all other factors being equal) going to be a lot more powerful per cubic centimeter than a taller disk of equal diameter. So it behooves one to try to make disks thin and wide.



Enter the HyperDisk, which is several times as powerful as my "motor" units and strongly active on dimensions 1-24 as compared with the 5-24 of the motors. Don't ask me what that means, exactly; these are mere numbers I dowse.
Instead of having a focal point of 12" (which happens to be the length Al originally made his Triniti Wands in), it has one at 1046mm (~41.125"), which happens to be the length favored by Slim Spurling in his devices.

Water bottles are not necessary to get the interdimensional effects. Water bottles 1/2-filled with charged water are nice, but they are too tall if you want to make a pancake.

April 27, '07: Took a 2nd one out of its mold this morning:



I shaved over 1/8" off the height. Used some different minerals, so it has a different quality.
The black thing is just a scrap of automotive neoprene tubing in there to be removed after casting, leaving a hole.

In this pic, I have the same unit with a shorter piece of tubing with a heavy gauge wire twist:



May 8, '07: Perhaps you are wondering how I made these things. I used a couple commercially-available items that I recently posted about. The silicone disk obviates the need for silicone in the mix, incidentally.
I poured a thin layer of clearcast in a very level mold. When that was completely cured, I placed in the disk, rough side down. It is better to use a dab more resin under this, and let it set up once you have it centered as well as you can. Make sure it doesn't slide off center before it sets up. Then pour a very thin layer of resin and slide your toroids into center position. I used 7. If you have 7 circular objects of the same diameter, they will form a neat hex pattern around a central one. I put these yang side downwards, to buck against the disk. I also put a bismuth disk in each torus, which happens to fit perfectly. Also yang side down. If you put one in the very center, make it yang side up. These are very good in the ferrite toroids, but one could substitute with other things. I put a mobius coil around the central pattern, and another around that. Connected the coils together. Poured a few thin layers of powder orgonite with quartz sand, etc. Et voila.
A 9" steel pie pan should serve as a good mold if you use polyester resin. Epoxy tends to be difficult to separate from metal molds, so I used a plastic one. You need a very level surface for this sort of work.

One could apply these principles to other ingredients. The silicon disk is not absolutely necessary, and if one can't get the toroids, one might use metal rings of some sort, even short pieces of copper pipe.

May 28, '07: I came up with a compact unit that combines 1-24 dimensionality with an LED chamber for severe impact. I call it a T-base for reasons that will soon become obvious.
I happened to have some old 3/4" copper pipe Ts around. The outside diameter happens to be the same as that of the ferrite toroids, so I took one and put pieces of aluminum tape over the ends. I also cleaned up 2 small bottles, 1/2-filled them with charged distilled water (I could have put a little pearl or gemstone in each, but I forgot) and re-sealed with alu. tape over the rubber stoppers (just in case the warm epoxy caused the air to expand enough to want to pop them out). I also made a fine little mobius. I used the wire Al Gray recommends for Trinity Wands. It is very nice thin wire, particularly pleasant to work with. I get that it's generally about just as good as my tinned 24awg, but it's much more compact and easy to make tiny coils with. One has to be more careful not to twist it clean off with the drill.
Length of twisted part was just under 51". But I also dowse that the unit would be almost as powerful with no coil at all. Also, the bottles are not required. One could substitute with crystals.

The coil was doubled over only once, and made to fit snugly around the pipe. I wanted to make an "open" style unit (see OTB 22) with only one wire going in, so I drilled a tiny hole in the T and soldered one end of the coil wire into it. Since I couldn't really heat up the pipe well at this stage, and didn't quite trust the connection, I ran a couple inches of stripped wire into the hole before I soldered it. I also put a glob of glue on the spot, while I had the glue out to attach the bottles. I used Welder brand glue. I put the T and bottles on a flat, level surface, and eyeballed it as it set up to try to make the center post as straight up as possible. Turned out amazingly close.

Note how the T, due to sloppy manufacture, is a little lower on the left top. Not ideal, but not the end of the world.

The coil was placed at a very specific height, which is where I would stop pouring epoxy later, to leave a flat surface at the ideal height to place the toroids on. I had dowsed that the ideal height of the toroids would be such that their top surfaces were faintly over 1/8" under the top of the T.
The yang face of the coil was upwards; the toroids would face downwards.

I poured some clearcast in the base of a mold, and let it cure completely. Then placed the "engine" on top, centering it as well as I could, then poured more clearcast.

I neglected to take a pic before I poured the final layer, but I set the 6 toroids in a hex pattern around the pipe. Each had a bismuth disk inside, yang face also downwards. However, one could substitute these with something else like qtz beads. Then I poured a layer of my "multidimensional" magnetite+silicon mix.
As you can see, the top of the pipe looks crooked, but luckily the hole is straight.

To ensure conductivity, the extra length of wire I had run into the tiny hole was pressed against the inside of the one end of the T with a wad of silicon-bronze wool. But steel wool would do. First I threaded a pearl bead through the wire.

OK, then it was time to drill a small pilot hole into the other end of the T, then a larger bit was used to bring the hole up to the size of the neoprene hose I have. This is to hold the LEDs. Unfortunately I have misplaced my stash of resistors and thus can't hook up the LEDs yet, but once I find them or get more, the bad guys had better look out.
Even not hooked up to anything, it is kinda good, with a dimension 1-24 focal point at 1046mm above the T.

What can one do with this? Various things. One could just place a quartz cluster on top. But remember, the wire is grounded to the T, so it is a live antenna. One can insert a pipe, and it will also be connected to your radionics output as an antenna. Here it is shown with a short pipe and danburite crystal. A Big Secret coil at the tip of the pipe would be a big enhancement I'll do later.



June 6, '07: A quick safety note: I just learned that Sindhooram, Sindur, etc., the orange powder I have sometimes recommended, consists mainly of lead oxides. Use caution in handling.

June 11, '07: Orgone RoboCops: [This section has been moved to OTB 24.]

June 12, '07: I keep forgetting to post this orgonite tip; pottery supply companies sell iron oxide red and spodumene. Bailey's has good prices, although their shipping costs more than the merchandise.
These are some of the best things around. If you mix 4-5 parts iron oxide red with 1 part spodumene, and stir that into resin even with nothing else, it will be very good orgonite.

June 14, '07: Check out the new, cutting-edge Lotus Coil.

July 9, '07: A few quick notes about the components I recommended June 16-17 on OTB 24. I may flesh some of these out more at some point in the future:

The audio amp: Jon Goldman ignores the GND's except for the power input one. So aside from power, there is just 1 wire for input and 1 for output. Also, there are some instructions in that model amp, cleverly hidden inside the packaging.
Jon says it is customary to put a metal film capacitor on the input and the output. One leg goes to the solder point, the other to the lead. Value is not crucial, but .1K is good. These are sold as metallized polyester or Mylar capacitors. (I did not do this on my failed unit.)
So your "LS" point goes to your antenna(s). You can put a switch on the + power line.

About the 2.2 UH choke coils: (note that I do not recommend other values on many of these components!) I have only used these on passive coils so far. One could put one in line on a passive mobius closed circuit with very good results, I dowse. So far I have only used 2, on my RoboCop. What I did was tape one end of one to the silicon disk very securely with duct tape to make a permanent connection. The other end got soldered onto a passive mobius. The other end of that mobius got another such choke coil, and the other end of the 2nd choke coil was soldered to a piece of copper screen, which was placed directly under the computer-brain quartzite. So it was not a closed circuit, but came out very nice. I do not know why, but the choke coils add a lot on passive mobes.

The ultrasonic transducers (only this type recommended!) you have seen used in the RoboCop antennas on OTB 24. Also I used them in my "targetter". The input wire goes to the input prong of one transducer. Then a wire goes from the output prong of that transducer to the input of the 2nd one. Then a wire goes from the output of the 2nd one to a hole drilled in a disc-plate of thick brass foil that is sandwiched between the bucking transducers. However, I had a bit of sheet mica, and cut 2 disks of that. So in between the transducers are 2 sheets of mica with the brass sandwiched in the middle. If you can't get mica, you'll have to think of something else. Maybe a tabular crystal or a thin slab of selenite, and skip the brass. The wire would have to attach to the rock somehow.
[Update on mica: see note at July 31, '07 below.]

For some reason, electronic crystals in the 49.920 MHZ freq (not others) have a nice vibe. These are quartz that has been sliced at a thickness that resonates at that freq. Contained in a metal jacket.

Being natural quartz, one side will be more yang than the other. Here I found 4 similar danburite crystals, and bucked their yang sides against the electronic crystals. This is the only time I've used them so far. I glued hematite beads onto the wire ends first, then glued the crystals together.

Here is my "targetter" partly completed in its mold. I was on a kick of making square units to fit more snugly in a portable system. The targetter core, after being sealed at the junction with tape, was cast in a cylindrical mold and then placed in the square mold. I poured a couple layers of epoxy, then placed the other components. As you can see, there is a splice in the white lead. This is because initially I planned to solder the wire to one of the wires of a crystal, then solder its other wire to another crystal, etc. in a loop. But then I realized what a pain that would be, and dowsed that it would be even better if I simply glued on the beads instead.
If you ever make things in square molds, consider placing something good in each corner. These are pure nickel beads sent me years ago by Agent M2 (whatever happened to him?). Good luck trying to find such things. My square-ish RoboCop 1 has a tiny water bottle in each corner.
Square units seem to work best when aligned with the cardinal directions.

Piezo discs vary in energy quality. The # PE-53 are the best these guys carry. I have not yet used any. One could slap them onto crystals or something, and hook the wires to something.

July 31, '07: Mica, isinglass, Muscovite... The mica I used in the targetter was black mica AKA biotite that I bought years ago as mineral samples at a hefty price. However, I just found that sheet mica is inexpensively available (allelectronics # MCA-2) in large thin sheets, and is the same thing as isinglass. It is an electrical insulator. Wikipedia says that isinglass is Muscovite mica.
I will be ordering some of these sheets. This mineral has superior energy qualities, and should come in handy for many things.

Update Nov. '08: I did get some isinglass, but so far have not used any.
As for the targetter, I later dowsed that that piece would be more useful for a different function, so I reprogrammed it and now use it as a stand for a programmed rock and plug the wire into a larger device as an input. Hence, I doubt this concept of a targetter is anything great. However, the concept of spacing and resonance is. I use that in everything I make now.


Loohan

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