Warning! March 9. 2006: I just checked by dowsing, and found that probably about all available noble gas bulbs are now deliberately tainted with an evil vibe because people were using them for healing. This includes the industrial supplier linked below, as well as some of the "healing" sites. I was suspicious about "hilarion.com" as Hilarion is an evil "ascended master". Actually, the person running that site is not a darksider [update 2018: even more actually, he was a shapeshifting reptilian and is now a repticlone], but has naively accepted the guidance of Hilarion. Quote: "I was to get very relaxed, say a prayer of protection and go into a deep trance state to access this energy, which calls itself Hilarion." This has tainted the products.

A premier way of souping up orgonite is with a "power pack". Basically this entails light bulb(s) containing noble gases like xenon, krypton, and/or argon, and synergists, especially rare-earth magnets, germanium, copper (and possibly rarer metals) and quartz and/or certain other vibrationally-compatible stones.

One can combine a pack with charged water, but the magnet will eventually weaken the water, unless one uses the technique of taping labyrinths onto bottles (see OTB 12) as a magnet doesn't seem to hurt the water when it's thus reinforced. Just sequester the water away from the pack, unless you are certain it won't leak.

Some basic info can be found at http://www.powerpyramids.com/HHGinstructions.htm [now defunct]. I know I've also seen at least one (non-orgonite-related) site that goes into the theory of this pretty well, but I can't find anything much with search engines. If anyone knows any good links on this, please send them to me. There are plenty of sites which discuss the healing powers of the gases, and some pretty fancy and expensive devices are being marketed. E.g. this one [warning: Satanists]. I'm looking for the page that talks of germanium diodes, copper foil, etc. If I find it, I will post it here. There is a good bit of info on healing with inert gases at hilarion.com, including this page, which shows a power pack similar to what we use. This site sells expensive, highly-pressurized devices.
Primaryenergysystems.com [defunct] also has interesting info, disagreeing with some info in the previous one: namely they advocate and sell lower-pressure tubes. Another interesting page is at http://www.healingtherapies.info/InertGas.htm.

What I've gleaned and found workable so far is this:

The flashlight variety of krypton or xenon is quite readily available and works fine, but ideally one can get the variety that has no metal base, but just two wire loops coming out of the glass. These are available from online suppliers such as www.alliedelec.com [products now corrupted]. These latter are generally available in a small size like the flashlight ones, as well as a larger size maybe three times as big. It is my impression that bulbs with a higher voltage rating seem more powerful. This may be because of a pressure difference. Also, it may be possible to get small canisters of noble gases economically; I have not researched this yet.

The bulbs are not ordinarily wired up to electricity, although they can be hooked up to a frequency generator with impressive results, and I will discuss this later. Most commonly, they are merely a convenient container full of gas.
However, one can also just power them with electricity. I have a solar 12v system at home, and have a unit that emits light, and has power pack ingredients wrapped around the base of the bulb. It can be taken apart in case of bulb failure. I run a 24v xenon bulb in it. Even at the reduced voltage, it still gets a bit hot. You are on your own with this; it can be hazardous.

You will also need at least one magnet, preferably neodymium, such as can be obtained from sources such as www. amazingmagnets.com [repticlones!].

Warning: some people claim that the combination of xenon and neodymium is too hectic, intense, or cutting, and recommend that a weaker type of magnet be used with xenon. Personally, I am a total orgone glutton, and feel the more xenon/neodymium the better, but then I am not new to energy healing. This sort of thing probably can precipitate an uncomfortable healing crisis in some.

Anyway, those are your main ingredients. The magnetic field excites the gas to emit more energy. Now you need some germanium in a suitable form. Probably the most accessible for most of us is in the form of a germanium diode. Not all diodes are made of germanium. It is the germanium you are after, not the diode per se.

Also you need copper foil, ideally, for wrapping it all. I consider brass (which is mainly copper) to be just as good, possibly better. If you do not have such foil, you can use aluminum foil (or even if you do, you can wrap the aluminum foil around the copper later) but it is good to have copper in some form in contact with the bulbs, for example smallish pieces of copper or brass lathe turnings, copper wire, or the like.

You may add some nice clear or colored quartz in the pack. Crushed clear quartz works well, or crystals. I've sometimes added a layer of crushed between the copper foil and an outer layer of aluminum. But I'm getting ahead of myself. There are many other minerals which I've found highly synergistic. Basically any fine, high-frequency stone is likely to be compatible. These don't all need to fit inside the pack, although I would tend to put the smaller, finer stones inside. In fact, you want maximum contact between the bulb and copper, so it may be best to have most of the stones outside the copper wrap, perhaps with an aluminum foil wrap around them.

You will also want to get a hold of some hematite that responds well to a magnet, which will receive special attention in placement.

A word here on malachite. I am a malachite freak, and [used to] add some little broken pieces to almost everything I make out of orgonite. Malachite is very compatible, in my opinion, with most things BUT NOT GERMANIUM in orgonite. Put a germanium diode against a piece of malachite, and I feel an interesting synergy. Put the malachite against a unit of orgonite that has a germanium diode pressed against it, and I feel the energy that the latter two were giving off get dramatically dampened. Thus, malachite is advised only if you are not also using germanium. I do have one unit that contains a power pack that has no germanium, but several bulbs with crumbs of malachite (a COPPER mineral, incidentally) packed around them, then a wrap of brass foil. I love it, but generally opt for the germanium route instead.

Anyway, you need to put your magnet(s) in contact with your bulb(s). It is my impression that the south pole of the magnet excites the gases more than the north pole. You can use a compass, preferably a cheap one, as the powerful magnets might make it goofy. Use the side of the magnet that the S needle points to. You can slap it against the side of the bulb, but, depending on what I'm making, I generally put the magnet touching the terminal(s) where the juice would normally connect to the bulb. On common flashlight bulbs, that means the bottom tip or the metal side. On the other type, you can bend the little wires out to touch the magnet, or else glue a small magnet to the flattish glass surface near the base, after ensuring that both terminals are on that side and bent up a bit to contact the magnet. Apparently, the magnetic energy flows through the wires and through the tiny coil in the bulb, increasing the excitation.

I usually stick some hematite to any magnet I use. [Update: a bismuth slug is great, instead, or in addition.] Be advised that hematite is very remarkably synergistic with magnets. Hematite runs a gamut from non-magnetic to strongly magnetic. I got a couple pounds of mixed quality, rough hematite for tumbling once, and found that the non-magnetic or weekly magnetic hematite tends to be prettier, shinier, and have much better energy when used without a magnet, whereas the magnetic hematite is uglier, darker, and has a dull energy by itself, but is far superior to the "good" stuff when near a strong magnet. Thus I test my hematite chunks (cheap stones sold for tumbling) and sort them, and use them accordingly.

Also keep in mind that, according to the prevailing wisdom among magnet afficionadoes, the south pole is beneficial for the earth, and the north pole energy is best for mammalian healing.

So the best sequence would ordinarily be, from bottom to top:
bulb, south pole, north pole,magnetite, or even magnetite,flat base of (best type of) bulb, south, north. However, maybe you are making a therapeutic unit for setting on a person as they are lying down; not a bad idea. In that case, you would want the north pole down.

Warning! Neodymium magnets can't stand too much heat. People have ruined magnets by cooking them in hot resin. To avoid this, one can work in a cold place, make one's cast smaller (pour in stages, or pour something like a small yoghurt container which will later be cast inside a larger unit), use less hardener, or use slow epoxy instead. [Update: set the mold in a charged-water bath if possible.]
Also, it may be advisable to avoid steel (including BBs) in power pack units, or at least in any inner units to be re-cast into larger molds later. The magnet pulls on steel when you try to stuff the mold. Also, I think the steel would "rob" some magnetism away from where you want it: the gas. Not that steel is necessarily all bad to use with packs if your intuition tells you otherwise.

Note that unless you insulate the pack, the unit will conduct its energy. Say you make a copper-pipe wand with a xenon pack inside. You want the energy to shoot out the tip, but when you touch the pipe, it grounds into you instead. You should either insulate the pack from the pipe and orgonite metal or, better, wrap the wand itself with an insulator. [Update: you want to do this anyway, regardless of whether you have a pack in there. The "organic" layer will cause more energy to be drawn in; bare metal will tend to radiate.]

OK, is that all clear? Intimidating? Well, if you are just making a big hunk to throw in the river or something, and don't want to make a painstaking effort at perfection, there is the quick and dirty method: just grab a magnet (those big, awkwardly-shaped ones from inside an old hard drive, whose poles are all over the place, are great for this once you separate the two halves) and bulb(s), put them on a piece of foil, add a germanium diode or two, hematite, and some rough quartz (citrine, amethyst, whatever,) and wrap. It will still give it a good kick. Too cheap to add the diodes? Substitute with some malachite.

Electrified power packs:

I have made these in two ways. One is to use a mobius coil. I have taken a squatty double-terminated crystal and put such a coil around it, and put the power pack on one end, wrapped the pack with the copper foil, then covered it and the coil with aluminum tape from the hardware store, leaving one end of the crystal sticking out.

The other way is to wire up one or more bulbs that are inside the power pack. Tie them together in series and solder. This works really well. The trickle of juice from the Terminator or similar frequency generator is not enough to cause the bulbs to emit visible light. But even a single 24v xenon runs a battery down in maybe 60% of the time that a 30' mobius would take. And if the bulb(s) is cast in orgonite, there is no way of replacing it should it ever fail; you'd still have a working "passive" power pack, though.

I have one sizable unit that I left a well in the bottom of. To do this, grease up a suitable smaller container on the outside with petroleum jelly, and set it in the mold when you fill it with metal, etc. In the smaller container, place something heavy like a bunch of BBs. This is so that the container will not float up in the wet orgonite. Do not pour resin into the small container. After the resin is well set up; hopefully the container will lift right out. If not, you can get out the chisel and the vise-grips and wrestle it out.
Alternatively, one can permanently cast a glass jar in position.

There; now you have a well that you can modify the contents of at will.

I took the cylindrical container I had formed the well with, and cut off the base along with an inch or so of the side, and use that as a bottom lid. I also had cast a plastic tube from a pen horizontally near the base, to provide a channel to run wires in.

Someday, I hope to invest in some bulb sockets so that I don't have to solder a bunch of bulbs together.

Driving it with your PC sound card:

[Disclaimer: I haven't done this yet.]

The mobius has very little resistance, and is fine for a Terminator-type frequency generator. If you want to drive the coil with your PC sound card, beware: these are designed for more resistance. You will need to add a resistor, probably about 25-30 ohms, to avoid damaging the sound card.

Bulbs have some resistance in themselves, but it would take many to provide enough.

To be updated later, after I do this.

Update: I am so full of it. I used to be the kind of guy that would usually do most things he said he would.
Anyway, I'm not sure if or when I'll drive a unit with a PC. However, I do have available a great freeware frequency generator, the nch toner. This is the first version, and the one Bruce Stenulson recommends as superior for our purposes than later versions. In fact, I snagged the zip file from his site.

Another extremely hot idea that has been implemented by myself and others is the "earth-battery" method. There were some threads on this at a forum now defunct. For those with access to the CD of the old cloud-busters.com forum, check out threads 8546, 9227, and probably others. Essentially, rods of 2 different metals are pounded in the earth, a foot or several feet apart, creating a difference in potential between them. Copper pipe and galvanized conduit work well together. However, something more than ordinary electricity flows between them, when hooked up with wires.
I like the energy from these even better than the potentiometer tuner, although the latter is more convenient for many purposes.

Update May 2005: Archie discovered that a strong magnet drives a mobius coil quite impressively. You have to have some sensitivity, though, to determine the correct polarity (which wire goes on the S end, and which on the N). I use a stack of neomagnets to drive the coil units in my vehicle, as well as a 3-potentiometer tuner in the circuit.

Update Sep. '07: As you might see from my more recent OTBs, I now drive my stuff with more sophisticated hardware.
I still have a small stash of the old, good bulbs, and on rare occasions make a power pack. But recently I bought 2 good xenon tubes. They weren't cheap. The reason I invested so much $$ is that I dowsed I could make the super-transmitter I'm working on 15,000X as powerful with a couple of these used a certain way. OK, that figure stretches my credulity, too, but I'm sure the thing will kick butt.

Each came with a wire wrapped around the outside. It doesn't matter much, but I decided to keep it.
Now, strobe tubes do not have a filament inside. If there had been a filament, I would have incorporated it in a passive loop containing also a 2.2 uH choke coil as well as other things. But here I simply wrapped the outside wire, the input wire, and the lead (from the red end!) of the germanium diode together.

Next I wrapped some copper tape (I happened to have some that was silver-coated) around the end with the diode. This seemed to be the best direction to wrap this.

Due to the unusual nature of what I was making this for, I put the diode and mobius strip (ref: see down the page here) near one end.
Otherwise I would normally put these in the very middle.

Then I wrapped a bit of electrical tape (this blue type has a faintly better energy to it than the black) around the wrap, then taped the 2 ends together. The non-sticky sides should go together for conductivity. See that mobius page; there are 2 possible directions of twist to go with this, one of which is a lot better.
And then taped over the mess.

Then, I taped 4 very small neodymium magnets, south face inward, to each tube along its length, and prepared a 12" X 2.5" piece of copper foil. This is a fairly thin foil. If you use a heavy one, you may have difficulties putting it into 3/4" pipe later.

I also put 7 tiny pebbles I'd sifted out of my agnihotra ash along the length. These are intense, and very potent for neutralizing evil energies.



I wrapped the stuff up and taped it together.



Then I taped a crystal onto the wire at the other end, first with aluminum tape, then enough electrical tape to make it fit snugly in the pipe. A double-terminated quartz one would be good here, but I used an unusually shaft-like amethyst instead.

The pipe is 12" long. Normally I would be inclined to use a plain section of pipe, but I am making something unusual here.

The right-angle pipe is centered 5" from the end of the pipe that has the diode in it.





For more on this device, see OTB 26.

Loohan

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