Minerals in Orgonite

[Note: old info from years ago; not necessarily what I do these days.]


Update Jan. '07: Most of this info is several years old. Less is more. Do not use too many ingredients. See OTB 18.
You want the ultimate stone for addressing evil energy? Danburite. Expensive, though, unless you get lucky and find a cheaper grade. Visual beauty and clarity make little difference on the energy of this stone. [Update 2011: that too is dated info. I found Danburite to be the best when using crude programming techniques back then. But with the advanced programming of The Committee, I am seldom moved to use danburite anymore. Which is good because it is expensive. Also sometimes I do use quite a wide variety of ingredients, and other times nothing but slightly doped resin.]

Disclaimer: Some of the info here has been corroborated by others, but much of it is just my opinion, based on nothing more objective than what feels good to me. Hopefully, the language I use in describing the effects of various minerals will give you some indication of the subjectivity level.

What combinations feel powerful to me may or may not, usually or always, translate to greater range and power. I simply am not sure yet. When in doubt, follow your own intuition. It is possible that different people have different responses to some minerals, due to healing issues, geography, or other factors. Also, too many different kinds of stones can be disadvantageous; apparently the frequencies of some stones cancel out those of others. It is good to be energy-sensitive or a good dowser if you venture into creative combinations. Sometimes the addition of an expensive stone is of little advantage or worse.

Breaking up stones: Some of these stones seem better when broken up into smallish pieces of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Some of them are damn tough to break. I use an old pressure-cooker salvaged from the trash, and a hammer. However, for some things, the hammer is inadequate, and I use an improvised battering ram for these (one of those 5' long heavy steel pick/bars with a big steel butt.) Some pieces will tend to bounce out, which is wasteful and can be dangerous. Take proper precautions, which include putting a layer of heavy paper, plastic, or old blue jeans, etc. over the rocks.

Also, when you break rocks up, you will end up with some fine powdery stuff which is great to use stirred into epoxy. But beware! Unless maybe you are working only with very finely powdered stuff, at least some powders, notably pyrite, tend to cause problems in polyester resin; the tendency is for the stuff to settle in the bottom of the mold due to the weight, and for some reason to interfere with the hardening in the tip. Actually, it may be that even pyrite works fine if finely powdered enough.
Sometimes it works out fine, but often not. Especially in a cone, pyramid, or tetrahedron, where the tip is well below the center of heat. Save up those powders for use in epoxy. At least the coarser metallic ones.

There are two different sets of mineral complexes I gravitate to. [Note: this statement is somewhat dated.] One is what I tend to use in small, low-budget environmental gifts, and the other is for finer items. And there are also minerals I would like to get, that are hard to find, that I would add to these if I could.

HERE IS WHAT I USE ON ICE CUBES and TBs: [update: lately I've been finding it easier to add mainly powdered minerals on small "tossing" items, as a mix of the inexpensive powders listed near the bottom of this page is much easier to deal with than adding a pinch of this and a pinch of that to every little thing.]

Quartz: of course. Sometimes I add a piece of citrine or amethyst (colored quartz.)

Malachite: I have always preferred this stone above all other inexpensive additives. Of course, I love malachite by itself, but it seems to me that a bit of it boosts the power of orgonite dramatically. I lately usually break it up into small gravel no larger than 3/8". Malachite is very easy to break up; I clip small ones with a large pair of wire-snips. Larger pieces I break up in my Vise-Grips first.

Finding cheap-grade malachite may present a challenge. I paid $35 for five pounds on eBay, of second-rate tumbled malachite. Tumbling is of no value for our purposes, so if you can find raw stones sold for tumbling, they should be much cheaper. However, it is still a lot of horsepower for the money, at the price I paid.

Generally, I consider this stone incompatible with germanium.

Sodalite: This is another inexpensive stone, at least for rough untumbled pieces. It is blue with white veins, and looks much like lapis. Sodalite is also fairly easy to break up, although it takes a hammer. This is almost as good as malachite, in my opinion, and synergistic with about everything.

Iron Pyrite: Mark Hooten got us started on this one. Great stuff. This needs to be broken up, which is not always real easy. Read the caveat above about too-fine powders in polyester. Bruce Stenulson sells local ores he mines; not only pyrite, but also other ores that contain much pyrite, as well as other minerals. These latter are especially recommended.

Garnets: also add a boost.

Howlite: I would add this regularly if I had a stash of cheap rough howlite. White with grey veins. This is another great stone like sodalite, adds power and good vibes and is synergistic with everything, as far as I can tell.

Obsidian: I sometimes add some of this to TBs. I have used Apache tears, but other types of obsidian are probably fine, too. If you want to make cheap but powerful TBs or cylindrical units, make Big Secret coils and put an Apache tear in each horn. No other minerals required.
Actually, any copper coil around an Apache tear makes for a nice-feeling unit.

Unakite: This stone has good energy and could be added, but I actually seldom use this on cheap units, not because the rough stone isn't cheap (it is) but because it is very tough to break up. Feels like a very healing energy.

Agate: Here's another one I seldom use, just because I don't happen to have a stash, but many agates have superb energy. Agate is like quartz minus the crystalline structure. I suspect it could serve as a substitute for quartz, with the addition of coils. Agates come in many different colors. Some agates have much better energy than others. If you are not energy-sensitive, you may wish to buy Apache tears instead; these are reliably of uniform good quality.

Other things I add (which don't strictly belong on this minerals page, but do belong on a list of additives) are activated charcoal and a few BBs.
Activated charcoal was popularized by Gale. It seems to increase the power of the orgonite, and provides UV resistance. I sometimes mix it with epoxy and brush a black coating on items. It is available in a powdered pharmaceutical form, which is generally expensive (but see source listed below) but much nicer to use, because you stir it into the resin. Or, you can get granules or chunks sold for aquarium filters. The activated carbon thus sold is good, too.
BBs are steel balls (spheres have intrinsic energy properties) that are coated with either zinc or copper (coating one metal with another tends to enhance the energy) and so are a good addition, unless you are avoiding magnetic stuff. It also lends weight, which can be desirable for gifting rivers with large objects you want to stay put. But it is best to keep them away from the surface of items to be thrown in water, as otherwise water will seep in and cause the BBs to deteriorate. Actually, that holds for any steel.

HERE IS WHAT I USE ON FANCY UNITS, especially ones with noble gas power packs:

I seldom make units of any size anymore that do not have power packs (or, alternatively, a container of medicine wheel water as described in OTB 7) as I believe that, for gifting, a larger amount of smaller units scattered about is preferable to one fat monster. So I figure, if it's going to be a fat one, may as well make use of that room to put in some serious goodies. Note: I recommend against using malachite with germanium; see OTB 5.

Topaz: I just love this stone. It can vary in quality, but the good stuff is premium for orgonite, and synergistic with everything. It's like a super-quartz; silicaceous, and a probable substitute for quartz. Mark Hooten said it's good to put in or on CB pipes.

Fulgurite: Adds its own unique and powerful kick; very important. I avoid breaking up the pieces.

Kyanite: I'm talking about the blue-black crystals here for inside the pack. The blue is more expensive, and called for when making use of its linear directionality, but probably not superior inside the pack.

Selenite: I found some great selenite slabs reasonably-priced. These were of the type that resembles ulexite (a.k.a. "TV rock" due to its transparent "fiber optic" fiber-like crystalline structure) very much in appearance. This I break up into smaller bits and powder.
It is also synergistic with other fine stones. See Bloodstone above. Another good combo is selenite + ruby.
Selenite is a potent stone. It is water-soluble, however.
Warning! Selenite is especially likely to be very corrupted! Possibly all selenite from Arizona is highly corrupt in the mine. Moroccan selenite usually is not, unless someone with "the touch" has handled it.

OTHER MINERALS of NOTE:

Amber is actually fossilized tree sap, and also adds a strong "glow" that may not be compatible with everything; I'm not sure. One can sometimes find crude copal amber fairly inexpensively.

Amethyst: is very closely related to citrine; in fact I understand that most "citrine" is actually amethyst that has been heated. Beautiful purple quartz with a high, sweet, frequency. Used for exorcism. Used like citrine. I sometimes put a cheap amethyst point in the tip of an HHG. Crushed into fine pieces, it can be sprinkled into the orgonite mix.
Don says it "softens" the energy of orgonite. As in makes it less aggressive for busting purposes. This may be true. I haven't done a direct comparison. I once made an HHG with a chunky amethyst cluster taking up a large proportion of the space. It has a very sweet energy.

Bismuth: Messeswithlizards recently sent me an "artificial" bismuth crystal, which is not only unusual-looking but has exceptional energy in contact with orgonite.
Intrigued, I bought some of the "discs" (not crystallized) on eBay. These are much cheaper, cylindrical slugs. The energy is not as good, but still good, and they have one end that emits more strongly.
This is what Drew (MWL) has to say:

"Artificially Crystallized" is somewhat of a misnomer. What that means (I saw how they do it) is that they heat up those pellets that you ordered to about 2000 deg f... then they let the temperature slowly come back down, I forget the exact temp but when it hits a certian temp those formations come out almost instantly. It was wild to see. These little things are the 'scraps', the main structure looked like a castle in the middle of a glass dish. way cool. The only thing artifical about the crystal itself is that 'man' had to interveine to get it heat. The rest was done by the 'nature' of the material.

However, one needs special equipment to do this (vacuum, gases).
MWL says he has mixed bismuth pieces with magnesium scrapings from a camping fire-starter and gotten amazing energy from the combination.

Black Mica a.k.a. Biotite: Jimshoe told us about this one. Supposedly, biotite pieces are a by-product or waste product of some industrial process, and could be had for about nothing if one knew where to look. I have only found somewhat expensive mineral specimens from rock shops.
If one had plenty, one could mix a bunch into all orgonite with tremendous benefit. I have to use it only sparingly in finer items.
This is a fairly powerful addition. If anyone finds a cheap source, please email me.

Bloodstone is excellent in contact with selenite. A great combo is selenite + bloodstone + blue kyanite. Calcite is very good too. And copper, silver, added to this make it even stronger.

Calcite: A very good stone. Also what sea shells are made of. I particularly like green calcite. Bruce Stenulson is offering a clearish calcite, as well as orange-brown, for a low price. One could break it up into little pieces, and mix them into the metal. I will be trying this in the future.

Citrine: yellow quartz that is believed to be unable to accept a negative charge. One can add a cheap little tumbled one to small units, ideally in contact with any clear quartz used. One can also use this stone in high-quality units.

Danburite: this is the ultimate crystal to use, in my opinion. It is uncorruptible and has a much stronger action than quartz against evil energy. It is the stone of choice for remote-warfare weapons.

Fluorite: I have not used this stone much, but it is actually pretty good for orgonite. Not sure about its range of compatibility with other stones.

Hematite: Many people consider this a basic ingredient for improving orgonite. I do not use it regularly, except where magnets are involved. Hematite is very remarkably synergistic with magnets. I always stick some hematite to any magnet I use. Also, more recently, I have noticed that a piece of hematite is excellent in contact with a copper pipe used in orgonite (e.g. a chembuster, water wand, whatever). Goes real well with nickel, too. Hematite runs a gamut from non-magnetic to strongly magnetic. I got a couple pounds of mixed quality, rough hematite for tumbling once, and found that the non-magnetic or weekly magnetic hematite tends to be prettier, shinier, and have much better energy when used without a magnet, whereas the magnetic hematite is uglier, darker, and has a dull energy by itself, but is far superior to the "good" stuff when near a strong magnet. Thus I test my hematite chunks (cheap stones sold for tumbling) and sort them, and use them accordingly. The shiny ones would be best for wands containing structured water.
Hematite is virtually impossible for the average hobbyist to bust up. For many applications, small pieces are most appropriate. It may be best to get small tumbled stones if no small rough ones are available. Someone sent me some powdered hematite, which is great.
I have read that some people are adversely affected by hematite, and shouldn't have it close to them.

Lapis Lazuli: I seldom use this stone myself, as to me, it doesn't add as much to orgonite power as other, cheaper, stones. Some people use it a lot. It can add a nice glow to the energy of a unit, though.
Once I made a very elaborate unit with many different stones, and each time I would touch a pece of lapis to it, the powerful field of the device went dead. So there must be some stone(s) that are incompatible with lapis, but I don't know what they are. Together with turquoise, it is excellent in nickel metal.

Lithium-bearing stones: tourmaline, lepidolite, spodumene, etc. Click here.

Magnetite: a premier ingredient. Can vary considerably in quality. Does have a magnetic field. I was lucky enough to get some quality magnetite in very fine powder form, and consider it one of the best things to mix in the resin. Otherwise, one can break it up with a hammer.

Peridot: beautiful chartreuse stone with a great healing vibe. Some people are putting these in TBs, which is fine if you have an inexpensive source for them. I so far have reserved these for personal-use units. But MaryK recommends Copper City Rock Shop, which list some for as little as $12/#.

Pink Lemurian Seed Crystals are a superior type of quartz, well described elsewhere. But beware: it's true that some will look like the real thing, but not be anything special.
I bought 2 "pink lemurian seed crystals" on eBay in 2002. $9 each for beautiful ones over 4" long.
They had the striations and color and were very clear, nice xtals with 3-facet terminations, but felt like ordinary good xtals, period.
The good lems can be discerned on the basis of sound: my big cheap ones sound clunky when I knock them together; if I bang a good ones together, the sound is more like a ringing.
I can't afford these things, and will probably just use this one to program other xtals for a while.

Serpentine: Haven't used this yet, but got some in that feels really great.

Turquoise: This is a pretty good stone to add, from what little experience I have. Actually, this is one of the stones with the nicest energy all by itself. If I had a supply of an inexpensive grade of this, I would use it regularly. Unfortunately it is a bit pricey these days.
Much turquoise is "stabilized" i.e. it is crumbly stuff that is solidified. It may be dyed, too. From http://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/gemstones/sp14-95/turquoise.html:
"In most instances, the stabilization and reconstitution of turquoise involve the use of earthy or highly porous types of turquoise which are pressure-impregnated with hot acrylic resins. The resins improve the color, hardness, and durability of the material to a point that inexpensive porous, poorly colored, or nearly colorless materials become suitable for use in jewelry."
If one could get their hands on some of a crumbly grade before it is stabilized, that would be perfect for mixing in orgonite resin.


Minerals and metallic compounds available in powdered form:

I ordered these powdered minerals from [deleted: some of their powders are corrupt with evil energy!] Thanks to Athene for getting me started on this stuff. How did I know which ones to order? I mention this because it may help you choose ingredients from any list: I dowsed simply by feeling the energy as the mouse pointer rests on each item name. Much easier for me than messing with a pendulum. Works with finger on paper, too. [Probem is the corruption is fairly weak, and I was less sensitive back then, and not aware of the danger, so I missed it.]

Dolomite (limestone with magnesium): This is one of their cheaper items, and one of the strongest for orgonite.

Magnesium sulfate: This is also cheap and strong. But wait a minute, you might say, that's just epsom salt, and I can get it a lot cheaper still at WalMart. Well, right and wrong: epsom salt is magnesium sulfate heptahydrate; it has 7 molecules of water in every molecule of salt. Epsom salt is wimpy, and not worth putting in orgonite. But this Mg sulfate is powerful.
It comes in clear little crystals, too large to mix into resin if you want penetration into shavings. I usually sprinkle a little in the mold.

Note that the above 2 minerals both contain magnesium. Pure magnesium turnings are one of the most awesome metals for orgonite. Expensive; might be found on eBay sold as a fire starter. Best source I know of is magnesiumsales.com. Highly flammable.
The above minerals are a cheaper and safer alternative.
Note that Mg sulfate also contains sulfur, another great ingredient popularized by Gale.

Spodumene: I love this stuff. 5# costs all of $9.50 and is quite a large quantity. Spodumene is a lithium-rich mineral that usually takes the form of hiddenite or kunzite, both superb healing stones.
I get a strong feeling of physical healing from this. Lithium is believed to exert a balancing effect on the meridians and chakras.
Spodumene supposedly can vary markedly in lithium content, but apparently I've been lucky so far.

Petalite: Another cheap powder containing lithium. Petalite stones are rather expensive, and have a high frequency.
In general, I prefer the spodumene powder, as I need that heavy lithium. But this is pretty good, too.

Copper oxide: at $5/#, it is one of the more expensive ones, but still cheap. This has great energy.

Iron chromite: same price, also great. Despite the iron content, it does not pull a compass needle, nor will a magnet pick it up.

I suspect the above 2 may be best used in small quantities, but haven't had a chance to experiment much with them yet.

Titanium dioxide: a white powder used as a pigment. Adds strong energy to orgonite. Not much is needed.

Rutile, dark: Rutile is the natural mineral form of titanium dioxide. It is what makes rutilated quartz so nice. The energy is different from the white powder. I like this a lot, too.

Lithium carbonate: $5/#. This is more expensive than, and inferior to, spodumene, and i don't recommend it UNLESS you happen to be working with nickel such as 6ddude has been making available to some of us. It seems to enjoy quite a synergy with nickel orgonite. (Nickel is quite finicky about who it hangs out with; many fine stones can ruin the energy of nickel.) Spodumene also goes kind of well with nickel, but this is distinctly better.

Silica: I got the 325 mesh; very fine. Silica is what quartz, obsidian, agate, glass are made of. I do not know the source of this powder. The energy is less intense than I'd hoped.

Update Feb/05: Pure metal powders and more expensive compounds are available at a price from sources such as Micron Metals. One can get awesome metals like silicon, bismuth, antimony, or nickel. (Nickel has special affinities, which I will expound on at a later time. I do not just mix it up with everything.) One can also get many fancy compounds. Dowsing the list, I get antimony trisulfate as the most powerful.
I have only purchased 2 items from this source, the antimony trisulphate and silicon, and that was extravagant enough. But a little of these really adds a lot of punch to the orgonite.

Now for some other powders not available from the above-mentioned source:

Copper plating powder, available from caswellplating.com. Not cheap, but concentrated. Maybe 1/4tsp to 24oz of resin; I think that's what dor2or, who turned me on to this, uses. Adding a lot more is not cost-effective.
One thing about it, though: a fair bit of it will float to the surface at the top of the mold. If this is the intake end of your unit, this is not ideal. (It's better to have more organic on the intake end, and more metal on the business end.) Perhaps a coarser grade of copper powder is available elsewhere. I tend to use more copper oxide (see above) which costs a fraction as much, and behaves very well.
Warning! Copper is toxic. May cause blindness if it gets in eyes. Avoid skin contact and breathing the powder.

Mica is available in powder form, and is also a good additive.

Sulfur as sold for horticultural purposes is another great additive. So is MSM, a form of sulfur sold as a supplement (expensive). It may be best to sequester the sulfur from the resin, as by wrapping a bit of foil around it.

Pascalite clay powder: You can read more about this, and purchase it from relfe.com. It boosts the energy. It is very good to add to water bottles (see OTB 1) that go into organite.

M-state (aka ormus) source mineral powder: Great stuff! Can vary in quality. M-state means that minerals are in a monoatomic state. The stuff I use is the raw land and sea mineral powder which is rich in ormus. Actually, pascalite and Celtic salt are also somewhat rich in ormus.

Salt: another powerful additive, though potentially problematic. There are expensive Celtic salts available which have very good energy. Also Himalayan salt has good energy.
Celtic salt is supposed to contain some M-state minerals, as well as a variety of minerals in general. Ordinary "sea salt" sold in health-food stores usually is mostly stripped of its valuable minerals.
I suggest using this as an additive to structured water in glass containers with plastic lids (see OTB 1) or sprinkled into the orgonite mix. However, if you do the latter, you should probably re-cast the unit with a salt free exterior layer, or brush on epoxy, to seal the salt away from water exposure. Remember polyester is somewhat water-permeable if soaked for some time.
Yes, it is fairly strong, energetically. It will also seriously speed up any corrosive action.
One can also wrap some in copper foil or something, to sequester it from the orgonite.

Sindhooram AKA sindur. This actually does not contain herbs, but is powdered decomposed iron compounds (like pyrite), I am told, with an incredible vibe. Very strong. That is, if you get a good batch! Here's a scan of two almost identical packages of a common brand. One is far better than the other. The second one is not worth buying. These are the only bags I have checked out yet. Buy this stuff only if you can discern that it is impressive.
In the US, ethnic Indian groceries will have it for $1 for 1/4 cup in a small bag. A terrific deal, considering the potency. [Note March, 2006: Now I am able to discern better. The packet on the left is only slightly corrupt. The one on the right much more so.]

Note: I used to have several rock sources here, but learned later that almost all sold me some corrupted stones, so I have removed those. Even Coleman Mines sells very corrupted shiva lingams. Those are dubious, anyway, having grind marks on them. But their quartz has always been good so far.
Some other Arkansas mines are run by people who corrupt stones, and have ruined their mines.

Sources for rocks:

Bruce Stenulson has some great stuff he mines in Colorado himself. That page also has some more detailed info about minerals.

For Pascalite clay, Stephanie Relfe has prices as good as you are likely to find at relfe.com.

The above people are all active in the orgonite movement. The ones below are not, as far as I know:

For general Arkansas quartz crystals, I have had the best luck with Jim Coleman mines, right on the Becker-Hagens grid in Jessieville, Arkansas. Some people believe they are better than other Arkansas crystals. Good prices, and if you need something not on their site, email them. I have gotten many pounds of smaller, TB-sized crystals from them. Ask for the $5/# points in the 3/8" to 3/4" size.



Loohan