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Loohan Communications Office
Orgone Technical Bulletin # 12
begun April 12, 2004
(formerly titled "Labyrinth Power")
A while back Susie in Australia sent me a beautiful drawing of the Chartres Labyrinth on cloth, about 30" X 30" and suggested I try charging water with it, among other things.
I eventually did, and found that the resultant water felt better and stronger to me than Sally's Medicine Wheel Water! (Which is described in OTB 7. This was some stuff she'd sent me last year.) Also, it tasted much better. I was drinking filtered tap water from a "Sallified" water supply, but when I put some of this on the labyrinth for a while, the taste cleaned up to "perfect" without any aftertaste.
Then I removed the Sally Water bottle from the pipe it was sitting on (the cold water line to a sink) which was charging the whole municipal supply (a highly-recommended practice), and replaced it with a bottle of distilled water that had a small printed Chartres labyrinth taped to it, face in, and with special copper foil pieces added (see below). This made the water coming out of the tap much stronger, and the taste better, but still required taking a bottle of drinking water to the bigger cloth labyrinth for final polish.
There are a couple of other things one can add that are not readily available right now, that improve the water even more. One is a type of energy bead made by a friend of Slim Spurling. Hopefully these will be available soon. Actually, one doesn't need to leave a bead in the charging bottle; distilled water will hold much of the charge of the bead. This results in even better-tasting water; I no longer bother to place the drinking water on the labyrinth for that final polish. The beads alone will not charge "dead" distilled water to levels comparable to Sally water. But their charge will piggyback on top of the labyrinth energy, augmenting it greatly.
There are actually 2 frequencies of these beads that I know of, and they are used together. Allegedly, the frequencies are inimical to 2 types of malevolent aliens: the reptilians and the greys. However, they don't feel anti-anything to me, just a real strong, pleasant, healing type of energy. I merely discovered that they improve the taste of water.
Update Jan/05: Now there is also a freq against etheric spiders and a dolphin freq.
The other power-up additive is a type of aluminum honeycomb used in aircraft walls. A friend is looking into a quantity purchase of this stuff now. This is good in orgonite, too. It seems to somehow, because of its hexagonal structure, purify the water even more. And adds significantly more energy to the charging bottle.
One can print off some small labyrinths at labyrinthos.net. I can vouch that the Chartres labyrinth will make permanently-charged water, even after removal of the labyrinth (provided it is made with distilled water with a piece of copper in it) but not all the others will.
One can easily make cheap energy devices this way.
I already had established to my satisfaction that to make a top-notch "permanent" 2nd generation Sally water (for energy devices or water charging, not drinking) requires distilled water and contact with copper, at least for a while while charging. I assume this holds true for labyrinth water, too. In any case, Chartres labyrinth water made thusly does keep its potency.
Of course, it will keep without copper treatment for as long as an intact picture of a labyrinth is kept taped to the bottle. But in the field, this paper is likely to become damaged eventually. Though I have kept a bottle submerged for many months with a labyrinth taped on with aluminum tape, with no apparent damage yet.
I recommend people use copper foil, if they have it, inside the charging bottle, and write/draw on the foil with a ball-point pen (see OTB 9).
If you don't have foil, use bare copper wire and make a small coil. It is easy to make a simple CW spiral coil or (better) caduceus around a wooden spoon handle or something, and slip it in even a narrow-mouthed bottle.
Not that it is necessary to keep copper in the bottle, beyond an initial period of perhaps a few minutes or hours. But these items add a lot of power.
Drop a mini orgonite unit into the bottle if feasible. Or silicone-glue one to the base on the outside. If the bottle will not permanently have labyrinth(s) driving it, avoid using steel or other ingredients that have a magnetic field. Even if it will be picture-driven, you don't want steel to be exposed to the water inside, where it will rust. The orgonite is optional, but very good, especially for environmental gifting. I keep a medium-sized orgonite unit on the municipal water pipe, as well. But there is beauty in economy, too, and I like having plenty of easy-to-make, orgoniteless ones around to toss into every pond, and give away.
Remember that water expands when it freezes, so leave an air space of maybe 20% if applicable. For items to be thrown in water, it is best to fill the bottle completely so it will sink, and place it in deep water where it won't freeze. Plastic bottles filled with distilled water (and, by the way, I am talking about the cheap stuff from the grocery store) will sink, slowly, in fresh water. I'm pretty sure they would float in brackish or salt water. In moving water, I would use glass bottles, or better, sealed copper pipe. One can even wrap the labyrinth(s) around the pipe end, tape over it, and cast in orgonite.
Actually, if one does the latter, one can leave the other pipe end open, as the river water in the pipe will continually be charged. I have done this with eclectic layering (OTB 9) on the closed end.
For that matter, one could use bottles, jars, etc. with no lid, for throwing into lakes, etc. The disadvantage would be that if the aluminum tape ever leaks, the pics would eventually rot. This is also true of the capped ones, but at least the trapped water in those will continue to hold the charge.
On fancier ones I cover the aluminum tape with duct tape. Any loose pieces of foil, aluminum honeycomb, etc. should fit snugly enough through the neck to not fall out.
The advantage is that one could use containers missing lids or otherwise unsuited. One wouldn't worry about steel lids rusting out. Plus they should sink well even in salt water. Also, if you have ever "inconspicuously" strolled around a lakeside park with a backpack filled with heavy water bottles, you might appreciate the lighter weight if a few are empty.
But beware of flotation issues! These will float unless you dip them in the lake to completely fill them first. I have made these with real wide-mouth jars, the cyclindrical kind where the mouth is as large as the jar, and these sink fast, but are more likely than bottles to fill up with silt. Which is probably not that big a deal.
Update 1/15/5: I have put up a tutorial with pics for making bottle devices. It is somewhat repetitive of much of the info above.
But labyrinths aren't only for charging water. One can also cast the pictures in orgonite without water, or set the curing orgonite over them to absorb some vibes. Some people believe that anything you want sorted out and properly resolved can be addressed with them; e.g. troublesome bills or legal notices should be placed on a labyrinth.
And then there's a consciousness shift that is alleged to occur if one walks one, even if only with one's finger on a smaller version.
I should mention that there is incompatibilty between Sally's medicine wheel water and this water. Sally water (I should state that I am referring to second-generation Sally water made with distilled) is permanently weakened by placing over a labyrinth. Permanently, that is, until one touches the bottle with a wand containing SW. Oddly, the result of this is markedly stronger than SW that has not been labyrinthized. Yet this still a bit weaker than pure laby water. To recapitulate, here is a list from weakest to strongest, according to my highly-subjective analysis:
SW that has been on a labyrinth
SW that has not been exposed to a labyrinth
SW that has been on a labyrinth, removed, and then revived by contact with a SW wand.
Pure labyrinth water that has never been sallified.
So what happens if you toss a laby water device into a lake that already has had SW in it for a while? I did this with a pond of mine, and the water turned out great.
Here's a pic set on aluminum tape, sticky side facing the viewer. This is preparatory for sticking onto a bottle or something. Rub the tape snugly into place to seal it well. Use an inanimate object to rub with; aluminum is soft and slightly toxic; Hulda Clark claims that we absorb some even by touching it.
Incidentally, most labyrinths I've checked out have a directionality to them, in addition to the upward direction: some subtle energy "shoots out" in the direction that is a continuance of the energy drawn into the "tunnel". This holds true of all the ones I mostly use, namely Chartres, Arras, Reims2, Dalby, Alasnan, Elypl. Some others, e.g. Amiens, St.Bertin, Maastricht, do not have a clear direction. Dransberg actually has more energy coming out the openings.
Important Note: One can easily make powerful-feeling energy devices simply by stacking the pictures on top of each other. If one prints out several pages at once, all the pics will be in the same position on each page; thus it is easy to cut out 4 or 5 layers at once.
I tried this with the torus pic mentioned below, and found it is better to rotate each pic out of its original position. It got better when I inserted labyrinth pics between them.
Also, if you write/draw the words/symbols found by the top of OTB 9 on the back sides of any of these pics, the energy will be greatly augmented. If you want this additional energy to be going toward the face of the original printout, write/draw mirror-image versions of your words/drawings on the back. I also respectfully mark on the faces, and/or doctor the faces with a text tool prior to printing; these are, of course, not done mirror-image.
Note: One can also print on the reverse side. More on this on the color graphics page. I do not mark on the color graphics or the "heavier" torus pics. And frankly, now that I have these superior pics, I hardly use labyrinths any more.
There are a few more labyrinth pics at crystalinks.com, including larger versions of Chartres.
Other (non-labyrinthine) graphics
that can be used similarly for the eclectic layering described in OTB 9:
"The SHIELD": A reader drew my attention to the graphic device at diviningmind.com. I've played around with this only a bit so far, and just as an energy device.
I printed some off, including ones I'd enlarged in a graphics program. Then I traced over the printouts like it said.
I find it is pretty strong-feeling, and synergistic with the GOD FORCE, labyrinths, etc. that I've been using in my eclectic layering.
Tracing over it with a the copper-flavored Sharpie marker is feasible on a larger printout, and makes it noticeably stronger-feeling. As does stacking more than one on top of each other.
However, I'd say that strictly as an energy stimulator, it is inferior to the labyrinths and GOD FORCE, and a lot more trouble (considering it has to be traced over). Nonetheless, there is a synergy factor.
Lakhovsky coil decals as mentioned on my coil info page, can also be used.
Mandalas of many types are available on the web, mostly in color. Here is one collection. Most of these are not real powerful, but many are pretty good.
A nice collection of small B&W shri yantras is here. Another, single, one is here. And a large one here.
It is amazing how different cultures came up with different symbols that have considerable power. From Ghana we have Adrinka symbols which have impressive energy. Many of them are excellent. The one I thought had the best energy is this one.
Check out what it means.
This site on the work of Ed Leedskalnin has his excellent Sweet Sixteen graphic, as well as a few more. This latter page has a nice taoist paqua, and I also really like the pic at the bottom. These pics will need to be cropped out, a task easily accomplished in any graphics program, e.g. MS Paint, which most people have. But if this is a problem, I will email them to you. Frankly, though, I prefer to use color torus pics, etc.
The Torus: I found a great gif of a torus that I like even more than labyrinths. It is a bit large, almost 5" diameter when I print it out. I can only get 2 per page. If I try to reduce the size in a graphics program, it just ruins it. Unfortunately, though I swear I bookmarked the site, the bookmark isn't there, and the site was also missing from my history. Freaky. At least I did save the graphic to my hard drive, and I will email it to anyone who asks, though it is inferior to the improved versions below. I can't publish it because it's probably copyrighted.
Update: Someone I emailed it to was kind enough to do some geat work on it, and sent me the following 2 gifs:
The one on top is the original one with excess black removed from the center; the original did not have that white hole in the center. This one feels better to me, looks better, and wastes a tiny bit less ink than the original.
This pic is weaker than the one below, let alone the color versions.
The second one is a real piece of work! Most impressive. This feels much stronger to me, though it would suck more ink out of the printer. This, in my opinion, is the best graphic for our purposes. Except for the color ones.
Note: it seems of dubious value to me to mark on the printouts of the torus gifs, except the top light version. I'm not sure it improves them, and it may do the opposite.
And here are some in smaller sizes. For some reason the darker tourus can be reduced in a graphics program. The lighter torus will lose info and most of its power if reduced!
I finally got my printer working again late Oct/04 , and printed off a bunch of pics. Then I taped one of the half-sized torus pics (the smallest one above) face-in, to a clear plastic bottle containing distilled water and a small, unmarked piece of copper foil.
The immediate energy output of that bottle was highly impressive! I let it sit overnight that way, then this morning early, I removed the pic. The energy seemed to hold for a while, but 48 hours later, I noticed it had diminished quite a bit! So, I recommend relying on a permanent pic to keep the water charged. I am putting both this pic and the Chartres one, apart or concentrically, on water bottles for gifting; whenever the torus deteriorates, at least the water should still hold the Chartres energy.
I tried one of these little torus gifs under a bottle of Sally Water (2nd gen made with distilled & copper) overnight. This graphic is far more compatible with SW than the Chartres labyrinth was! After I removed the bottle from the pic, the resulting water felt noticeably superior to the torus water made with plain distilled. Of course, adding the honeycomb and bead energies would probably boost it even more.
I also charged some plain distilled with both Chartres and the torus and nothing else, except a scrap of copper. This is a bit stronger than SW+torus, but the SW has a different, sweet energy about it that is nice, too.
10/29/04: Added a page of color graphics. They feel stronger, as does the water they make. In fact, the water feels quite superior. I'm talking about the color torus pics; I haven't tried the mandalas on water.
Some people are casting pics near the surface. I really should mention that my own experience in casting pics by putting them in the bottom and sides of the mold didn't work out that well. It looked fine taken out of the mold, but I dug it up months later, and moisture had deteriorated the pics noticeably.
Apparently, the pics were so near the surface that they absorbed moisture from the damp earth. And this was with thin epoxy. Epoxy should be waterproof, but I guess some of the paper fiber wasn't fully coated.
So if you have items like that, you might want to recast in a thin layer of epoxy, or brush some over the bottoms. Polyester absorbs water.
11/25/04: Athene recently told me about "gravitoning". There is a somewhat hard-to-understand site on it here. But essentially, what you do is open any pic in a graphics program, Select All (probably under Edit). Then Copy. Then Paste it repeatedly in place over itself. Right-click, Merge All. Save.
This does not change the appearance, but the energy output increases with each paste. This increased energy transfers in printing. I do not understand this, but I can feel it.
I realized that one can increase the power much faster if one hits Ctrl+C (copy) every time or 2 between Ctrl+V (paste). Presumably, this is because one is copying the most recent, energized version and pasting that, instead of the original version.
It will tie up my PC's memory real badly if I do much of this stuff, especially with large, color pics. If your computer slows down a lot, simply save your work and restart to restore free memory.
I have gravitroned most of the pics on the color graphics page already.
4/23/05: Now Susie's got me started using labyrinths to charge something by pasting a pic inside one, digitally.
One can do this in MS Paint. See "inserting bitmaps" in the help index.
That is a depiction of the Earth and its southern ozone hole.
And here's one of Washington, DC.
These can be printed off.
See also OTB 15: Advanced Power Graphics, published 5/10/5/.